The "Magic" of Negative Punishment

I know we talk about Positive Reinforcement all the time, but that doesn't mean that we don't use a form of punishment. Negative Punishment is the Yin to the others Yang.

Positive Reinforcement increases the chances of a behavior happening again by adding something good or fun - a treat, toy, a chance to run outside, a walk in the park, or play time with other dogs.

When we want a behavior to go away, we want a technique that won't cause fear or intimidation - hence Negative Punishment. It takes no force to use, and can be accomplished by any family member - young or old. The method is simple: Don't touch, talk or speak to the pet when its being naughty. By avoiding acknowledgement, you'll giving a quiet yet obvious message: I don't like this so I'm shutting down.

This technique in action: Your dog plops his saliva slicked tennis ball in your lap. You respond by standing up and letting the ball jettison onto the floor (no touch), while keeping your eyes on the TV program you were watching (no talk) and munching on your popcorn (no speak). Your pet may respond by dropping the ball in your lap a few more times, then gives up for lack of success. Once he's sitting or lying down (action you like) grab the ball and toss it for him ( positive reinforcement). He's make the link of action and reaction for each situation.

Using these techniques you can successfully teach your dog good habits and eliminating bad ones in a what that will reinforce trust.

Nobody's Perfect

I’d like to dispel any skewed visions of how *awesomely behaved* my pets are since I work for the Behavior Service. When I sit down in the exam room with a client to discuss behavior modification, I often share my personal training challenges I’ve experienced with my own pets. It gives them perspective; after all, we aren’t training gods.  Nay, we‘re mere mortals with pets who can create mayhem and foolishness in our lives too. This often eases tension, because there’s less fear of judgment from the situation they’re facing.

I’ve yet to meet a trainer or Behaviorist who can (truthfully) proclaim that their pet is “perfect” in every way. That type of animal is as rare as a fabled unicorn. Though I adore my pets, they all have their own quirks.  Personally, I own a Beagle (insinkerator) who’s so devoted to all things “food” that he’s managed to get into child-locked trash cans and unscrewed the lid on his bear-container-like food receptacle (he looked like a hippo after the feeding frenzy). I kid you not, if he had an opposable thumb, I’d be hosed. He’d be building a drone to assist him in food acquisition from elevated surfaces, much to my dismay. 

After a long day, I occasionally feel my dogs are like the cobblers children who run around shoeless; they can be rude little beasts begging at the table, but hey, that indulgence isn’t going to kill anyone, so why not? We’re not immune from feeling tired and, frankly, lazy. The good thing is that we have the knowledge and skills to tweak things to set it all right again…when compelled.

The reason our advice works so well is because we don’t live our client’s lives. We aren’t suffering from the frustration, fear and anger that the owners are faced with each day. With our perspective, we’re emotionally removed and able to lend an objective eye to resolve the conflict. We can’t be totally devoid of emotion though. The fact that we’ve been down similar paths with our own pets provides a font of empathy, so we understand the emotions that put up road blocks to progress. Many times it’s not just the pet’s behavior causing a disconnect; it’s also the owner’s feelings of shame, failure or judgment that keeps people from seeking appropriate help in the first place. 

We’re real people who love and understand animals, but we’re not immune from having pets that make poor choices. The next time your dog does something that drives you crazy, please think of me walking into the house to find pickle juice, coffee grounds and the dregs of several days of who-knows-what all over my carpet with a Beagle happily wagging his tail in greeting. Oh, and don’t forget the part where I walk out the front door again, counting to ten to avoid a barrage of NC-17 language that’s dying to roll off my tongue.

Dissecting Disobedience

When I bring up dog ownership, do you think of Lassie trotting obediently next to his boy Timmy? Many envision dogs as heroic, selfless and loyal canine companions who stick by your side, hanging on your every word for the opportunity to serve. In reality, dogs can be all of those things, but they also can be fearful, aggressive, and taxing. Dogs aren't robots. They have thoughts and feelings that may not be congruent with our own, and are often seen as unimportant because we’re “in charge”. If a dog doesn't plop himself on the floor within seconds of being asked to “down”, it’s commonly misconstrued as insubordination at the very least.

This brings me to a question posed by a student yesterday: “So, if you only train with positive reinforcement, what do you do when your dog won’t do what you ask?” It’s an honest question, and one often posed by those who use punishment in order to ensure their dog knows blowing them off has consequences. Before you reach for your choke chain, consider an even better question: “Why wouldn't your dog do what you ask?” The reasons can be many:

•  Medical: He has arthritis in his hips and sitting is uncomfortable or even painful
• Distraction: he just learned how to sit while in the house, but now you expect him to do it outside with tons of distractions…and he’s not up to it yet.
• Confusion: He doesn't understand what you’re asking for since normally you use a hand signal for sit, and today you’re using a verbal command, which he never connected to the action.
• Fear: Another dog’s walking down the street and he’s too anxious to be able to follow instructions.
• Arousal: Just like with fear, if your dog sees their FAVORITE person coming down the street, he may be too excited to follow directions.
• He’s just not feeling it: Yes, this does happen – but isn't as typical as you think.

So, to answer the question: If my dog doesn't obey, I may:  ignore him –so as to not reward blowing me off, realize he’s over his threshold and get him out of the situation, offer a better resource for following the command, try again in a less distracting circumstance, determine if he seems painful, or work on training drills so that I know he understands what I’m asking of him. Don’t just assume he’s being a twit.

Seeing disobedience as an opportunity rather than an insult will only enhance your relationship and offer better results in the future. Using positive methods prevents you from making knee-jerk reactions which can harm your relationship, create more problems in the future. 

For the Birds

Recently, our own Dr. Liz Stelow DACVB offered a talk on avian behavior for the UC Davis Behavior Club, which I felt deserved recapping. The talk mainly focused on Parrots, since they are the most frequent fliers of our Service. 

Many popular birds we keep as pets (more pointedly Macaws, Conures and Cockatoos) are NOT domesticated animals. A domesticated animal is member of those species that have, through generations of selective breeding, become notably different from their wild ancestors to benefit humans.

Most large parrots are either wild caught (illegally) or only a generation or so from being wild. Many owners prefer to get their birds as babies, in order to establish a firmer bond. The problem with this practice is that they would normally spend a couple years with their parents learning natural behaviors and methods for coping with stress. In a human home, they don’t receive this sort of training.

Many people don’t understand these beautiful birds’ needs. They’re social animals that call to each other loudly in the morning and evening. They spend their days searching and obtaining food, flying, and preening. They are typically tropical and need their beauty sleep – at least 12 hours of darkness and rest. In a human environment, we’re not too hot on the vocalizing. We also forget their needs for beauty sleep and place their cages in the middle of high traffic rooms that have *maybe* 8 hours of peace and quiet during the night. Food is offered in bowls, so work isn’t required. Birds are caged and their wings are clipped to prevent destruction of the environment. They don’t have a flock, so many face a life of close bonds with maybe one or more people…and no mating possibilities. Since parrot species are long lived, owners must consider the future of their pet if it ends up outlasting them or the novelty wears off.  Lastly, many owners accidentally feed too many seeds and not enough good greens, fruits and grains such birds would find in the wild, in addition to a quality pelleted diet.

Human interaction can also be a problem. If an owner spends their time sharing food, petting and showering with their bird – their pet is going to get the wrong idea. These birds can become aggressive to other household members since they are seen as a rival.

Training as important with birds as it is with a dog. These are very intelligent animals that need to have their brains challenged on a regular basis. Training is a great brain exercise and often builds bonds with birds, but so many fail to realize its importance.

What is the ideal lifestyle for a captive bird?

•         Expect vocalization. It can be minimized by not rewarding it with attention. Using Nothing in Life is Free works with dogs and birds.
•         Offering companionship with other birds is ideal, but this can turn into an arranged marriage that doesn't pan out.
•      Offer new toys – GRADUALLY. Most birds are fearful of new things, so introduction of the new item may have to start from across the room, and then get closer over weeks.
•         Variable climbing surfaces, toys, perches and an ability to have a flight area is enriching.
•         Make eating an activity by using food puzzle, foraging surfaces and so on. Start off simple since some birds have never had to work for their food!
•         Talk to your veterinarian about your pet’s ideal dietary needs.
•         Have training time each day. Get creative and your bird will blossom.
•         Typically, don’t pet your bird below the shoulders since it can be otherwise be misinterpreted as a marriage proposal.
•         Have a quiet, dark area to provide your pet with 12 hours of uninterrupted sleep.
•         Keep your home a comfortable temperature appropriate for your avian companion.

Need a good resource for how to make a better life for your bird? Check out Behavior of Exotic Pets – edited by Valarie V. Tynes. This book is a good resource. Making an appointment with a veterinarian who specializes in avian medicine can also be exceedingly helpful in ensuring you’re keeping your pet happy and healthy. A good place to find such a person is the Association of Avian Veterinarians.. If your looking for fun training ideas for your bird, check out Melinda Johnson's Clicker Training for Birds.

There's No "I" in Team

Dogs are amazing creatures which bring so much to our lives. The problem is their natural desire to give isn't always reciprocated. Though they meld well into so many situations and perform a myriad of functions that benefit us, we have to remember that they have needs as well. 

A dog shouldn't be a status symbol. If you buy a Bulldog because of their “cool” factor, be prepared to have additional sums for its health care needs. Veterinarians don’t have patience for those who buy a designer puppy for $2000 and then lose their head over the cost of vaccinations, fecal testing, deworming, flea and heartworm preventatives and so on. Additionally, if you buy a German Shepherd (from Germany), who has “unbelievable working lines” – don’t use it as lawn art! Your dog’s a thinking, breathing, emotional being that needs the ability to have training, affection, play, and an outlet for its breed-specific needs. It’s not there to decorate your backyard like a toy you can put on a shelf when you’re bored.

A dog shouldn't be a fashion accessory. Those who buy little dogs as a constant companion in their carry bag have delegated that pet to being a mere observer in the owner’s world. The dog has legs for a reason, so let the little one explore, become more confident and get exercise. Some of these dogs become fearful and anxious because they haven’t had the opportunity for independent exploration. Imagine if you were sequestered to a wheelchair, but you were perfectly capable of walking! It doesn’t stop there though. Some dogs live as a dress up dolls, without consideration of whether the activity makes the dog happy or at least comfortable. If your dog requires its own closet to house doggy couture, and you don’t have a Chinese Crested or weather requiring additional warmth, you may have a problem.

Lastly, your dog is shouldn't be an extension of yourself. This is a tough one. If your dog goes over to a friend and mounts their leg with great verve, I know it’s hard not to be totally embarrassed into 90 shades of crimson. Apologize to the person and divert your dog, but don’t punish him. Punishing your dog due to your discomfort may seem natural, but often reinforces the situation, or worse, pushes the pet into becoming defensively aggressive. As humans, we have a knee jerk response when confronted with situations that might imply we’re not good leaders. Here’s a scenario: while standing in a checkout line your kid points to the person next to you saying “She’s got a HUGE nose!” Your reaction is to scold your kid because he made you look like a terrible parent who teaches their child proboscis shaming! No. It’s a child; they’ll learn people come in all shapes and sizes, but can’t be expected to have an advanced adult social filter at such a young age (and the lady really did have a big honker). With dogs, they do what comes naturally as well. We need to listen to them to determine why they’re reacting, and then divert their attention to something that they CAN do instead. Disobedience is one area where dogs are judged harshly. Reactive dogs are often punished by their owners out of exasperation spurred on by public pressure (real or imagined) that decides they haven’t done enough to curb that dog’s behavior. Dogs are not automatons that are capable of turning off their own perceptions, fears, and concerns just because the display would be “inconvenient” for the company at large. Be a protector—remove your dog from the situation.

Dogs are a wonderful species, whose presence in our lives rewards us by enriching our own. We need to remember they are whole and separate from ourselves, and give them our time and understanding so they can have the opportunities to fully explore their true natures. Ownership is a dance and if you don't pay attention to your partner, all you'll find is that someone's got sore toes.

Pick a Winner

We are often asked to give a referral for a “good dog trainer”. Selecting a trainer is as important as choosing the proper person to be your kids’ nanny. We often recommend trainers who are educated, perform regular continuing education, use reward-based training, will let you monitor a class to see if you feel comfortable and have references. If you’re new in a neighborhood, doing the research can be tough; thus websites often end up being a starting point to pare things down. I thought it might be helpful to point out some key phrases which might indicate steering clear is the best option.

• Pack Leader/Pack Theory: This phrase alone may indicate that the trainer is ascribed to dominance-based training which does not promote a good relationship with your pet.
• Balanced Training: This means using “good” and “bad” to achieve balanced training. Good would be positive reinforcement. The bad is most likely positive punishment with choke chains, prong collars or electronic collars. Combining good with bad will, at best, give you something neutral. I would prefer a good experience personally.
• Done without harsh punishment: This means there will be punishment, but not HARSH punishment. Yes, they could mean negative punishment (walking away or turning your dog jumps on you), but I doubt it. Harsh is subjective, so I would pass on this one.
• Fast results guaranteed: If you have ever touched a hot burner or have been shocked by a short in an electrical cord – you know you only do it once. Fear is a powerful motivator – but it does not make for a trusting relationship between you and your pet.
• No bribery: This essentially means they don’t use treats to train “commands”. The thought process is that the pet must do what’s asked out of respect for you – or out of respect for the pain that you can inflict if he doesn’t follow instruction.
• Obedience to fix problem behaviors: Behaviors problems are not always an obedience issue. If that were the case, your dog would be doing things just to make you mad – which isn’t in their mind set. For instance: If your dog is barking, it may be because he’s scared of the kid who throws rocks at him over the fence. Expecting your dog to shut up because you say no won’t make him less frightened.
• Specializing in Board and Train: There can be trainers who offer board and train in a responsible positive manner. The concern is that you have no idea how your pet is being trained in your absence.
• The use of e-collars, stim collars or remote training collars: These are all euphemisms for electric collars and should not be used in training.

Other helpful sources:
American College of Veterinary Behaviorists How to Select a Trainer
American Veterinary Society of Behavior’s How to select a Trainer handout
Trainers through the Karen Pryor Academy
Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers

The Galloping Gourmet

Dogs are wonderful animals that bring so much value to our lives. We love to play with them, pet them and snuggle – that is until we discover that Rover has been busy eating stool in the backyard. Yup, you heard that right. Eating poop is a gross doggy habit…I guess that’s one benefit of strictly owning cats. For those who have a pet with this affliction, your first question is probably “Oh my goodness. Why???!!!” Coprophagy, or eating of stool, is suspected to be caused by:

• Natural behavior: Female dogs clean their puppies and their den by eating stool. A large percentage of dogs that eat stool are females. The most common breed with this problem is Beagles.
• Underlying medical problems: This can be seen in pets with malabsorption in the gut, starvation or malnutrition (ensure your pet is getting a balanced good quality diet).
• A less discerning palate – they think it tastes good. Raiding the cat litter box rates highly as a popular bistro bar since cat food is higher in protein.

If your pet is eating his own stool, or those from your other dog, there are many preventatives including:

• Take your pet on walks and bag the stool as you go
• Do not yell at your pet when it consumes stool since this might accidentally reinforce the behavior
• Ensure you are providing a quality diet – talk to your vet for suggestions.
• Unfortunately, research has shown that no aversive additives work.

Out of all these preventatives, the most successful treatment is to pick the stool up right after your pet goes to the bathroom. Get your dog on a feeding schedule to help regulate stool production and make pick-up times more predictable. 

If your dog is a frequent flier to the cat litter box, consider making one bedroom or office the “cat domain”. Use a child gate to cordon off the area – your cat can jump over, but your dog is kept away from temptation.

If your pet is a scrounger on walks, keep him or her leashed and sequestered to paved areas where animals are less likely to eliminate. The biggest concern with coprophagy—other than rank dog breath—is the ingestion and transmission of intestinal parasites. If your pet tends to ingest stool be sure to have regular health exams and fecal testing to prevent infestation.

Don't Move My Cheese

I learned everything I needed to know about food aggression from a dog/animal actor named Chester. Our relationship started on a commercial set, where I worked as a second-trainer on a Three-Day Blinds commercial with him. He was an adorable wrinkle-beast, so cuddly it was hard not to fall in with love him. He reflected a mild nature, regardless if you scrubbed him up in the tub, cleaned his ears or provided a pedicure. He had a gentle mouth when offered treats, tail wagging and eyes sparkling. Over all, I thought of him as a gentle soul…until the day I fed him and attempted to pick up his food bowl. Watching the Exorcist would probably give you a good idea of the shock and awe on my face when I saw “that look” come across his face seconds before his teeth flashed near my hand! I jumped back – uninjured but deeply stunned.

This isn't an uncommon situation. Many people have perfectly lovely dogs - just so long there isn't a bowl or high-valued chewie sitting out. Food aggression is interesting in how owners react to the possessiveness. Let’s put this in perspective: I have a plate of chocolate chip cookie and I’m chowing down on them. I've been looking forward to this moment of bliss ALL DAY and now it’s coming to fruition. Suddenly, someone comes by and sticks their thumb in the middle of the cookie I’m eating. Then, as an indication of ultimate skeeziness, swipes the entire plate away while all the while telling me how BAD I am for getting upset. This is the travesty of being a dog. Misinformed people have perpetuated the idea of taking away food from puppies while they’re eating and scolding them for getting mad. Even worse: others put their hands in the bowl to ensure it’s understood who the Alpha is! In fact, you’re just being rude. You’re the provider of food and the one with the opposable thumb, so you really don’t need to put on such a needless show of power.

Food aggression is caused by the fear of losing a resource.

By taking that item away from the animal, you’re reinforcing that perception that their fear is valid. The only way to teach a dog that you’re not salivating over his bowl of kibble is to build trust. How can you do that? Become a provider rather than a thief.

If your dog is aggressive about food or toy – make your presence seem like a party. You want him to look forward to your presence while he’s eating rather than dread it.

•  Start by getting close enough so your pet can see you, but not so close that he stops eating, gives you the hairy eye-ball, growls or snarls.
•  Once you've established the “safe spot”, toss something truly special and delicious right near his bowl (like a piece of chicken or hotdog), then walk out of the room. You’re showing him “When I’m here, something awesome happens!”
•  With treat tossing as your mission, get slowly closer to the bowl during each meal, following the previous parameters of ensuring your pet isn't getting upset with your existence.

Eventually, you’ll find that when you walk into the room your pet may STOP eating and look up at you with a totally different expression – one of happy expectation. If he leaves the food bowl, so be it, you want him to be happy that you've come by the ol’ doggy trough to visit.

Do you want to take the bowl away, but Rover refuses? Do a trade: Have one person call him with a delicious morsel, while you whisk away the bowl. Note that throughout this scenario, there’s no yelling, intimidation or corrections. Fear is built on those principles. Trust, however, is grown through consistency, respect and understanding. If you do your job right, you’ll find that the training is much simpler than arranging an exorcism.

                                              Chester courtesy of Ron Kimball Photography

Seeing Both Sides of the Situation

Our exam rooms have been host to numerous animals and owners seeking to find common ground and resolution to a myriad of complex problems. The one thing that all of our appointments have in common is how the appointment starts – with the student, staff or faculty member asking “how can we help you today?” After that question is tossed out, we get perspective of how the pet’s behavior has affected their owner. After that, we let our eyes, ears, nose and hands help get the rest of the story from the pet. The solution to the problem presented is often about opening lines of communication between the two parties so healing can begin.

As humans, we take in information around us, and then sort it into what’s important and what isn't. Next we add emotions to the situation, with a dash of our own history into the interpretation. The end result is what we understand as true. The problem is we’re using our perspective to write the narrative of a creature that doesn't think like we do.

Case in point: You come home to find that your cat peed on your comforter. You know it’s your cat, because it’s the only pet with access to the room. You know it’s less likely to be your husband because, well, he knows that being housebroken was a non-negotiable item on your e-Harmony form. You start pondering about what would compel your cat to do such a thing. Your bed doesn't appear to be a sandy litter-box. This has never been an issue before. The cat knows it’s your bed, since she sometimes sleeps with you under the covers on cold nights. She didn't pee on her OWN bed, so this must have been personal. Why would she be mad? Well you were out for a fun weekend in Tahoe, and she was left alone with the automatic cat feeder as her only form of company for a day and a half. Your cat is a pouty vindictive wet towel who detests the idea that you’re out hanging with friends rather than sitting in front of the boob tube, petting her.

This all sounds logical to a human (though I doubt many of you have room mates who feel put off by not being invited to a party and handle the slight by relieving their bladder on your stuff). On our end, we see an older, pudgy cat with a mild limp. There’s only one litter-box in the home and it’s downstairs. When no one’s around, said cat enjoys lying on the bed, bathing in the sunshine provided by a nearby window. When people are home, she’s all about being on her owner’s lap for a pet…though that’s been happening less for some reason. What we wonder is if the cat is arthritic, and if pain from jumping up and down might have something to do with the situation. If she was uncomfortable and lying on the bed and couldn't bounce down off the bed, down the steps and across the home to the litter-box, accidents happen. Cats aren't vindictive. They don’t keep hash-marks on the side of their scratching post, tracking perceived slights until the decision to steal your breath while you’re sleeping seems an attractive prospect on the ol’ bucket list.

We would want to perform an exam on the cat, x-rays if indicated, and possibly a blood and urine sample to rule out internal organ function problems. If everything looked normal, then we would discuss recent changes in the household such as a different kitty litter, pan, litter-box location, other pets, stressful events or local outdoor visitors like feral cats. Felines are sensitive souls, but most of them really WANT to use a clean, well-placed lavatory. Once you get the pets perspective, answers come more easily and harmony in the household can be re-established. Some cases aren't as easy as this, but it’s a good example of how a single offensive act doesn't necessarily indicate a declaration of war – rather a cry for help.